Welcome to Puppy Preschool!
Puppies are going to be nervous and excited today and it is entirely possible that your puppy will either hide under your chair or be embarrassingly boisterous!
Don't worry, this is all part of the learning process. We expect to see them come out of their shells, and learn some social skills over the next few weeks.
This week we will introduce ourselves, discuss the characteristics of the breeds in the class and talk about basic puppy training, socialization and body language. We will touch on preventative health and of course, there also will be plenty of time for questions!
Vaccinations
As a general rule, at six to eight weeks puppies are vaccinated against Distemper, Hepatitis, and Parvovirus. At ten weeks this vaccine is repeated and as well as vaccination for Canine (kennel) Cough. The final booster of puppy vaccines is given at 6 months of age, which is the perfect time to get them checked over before their desexing surgery as they move onto adulthood.
Puppies need to be isolated until 10 days after receiving their second vaccination. However, keeping them secluded from the world can result in anxiety and behavioural problems. During this time, we recommend socialising your pup with healthy, vaccinated dogs in a clean, safe environment. Ten days after they have had their second vaccination they can really start to go out and experience the world.
Introduce them to all the sights and sounds of the city as well as a variety of people. Please see the socialising checklist attached.
Socialisation
The dog to human bond is established early in a pup’s life and it is essential to practice good social skills
early. Encourage your family and friends to interact with your pup. Playing with healthy, vaccinated dogs
prior to receiving all puppy boosters does carry a small risk, that risk is likely to be outweighed by the
benefits of socialisation.
Think about your lifestyle and how do you foresee your puppy’s future and start introducing them into
that environment. Will they be going on long car trips with you? Then they better enjoy being in a car!
Will you be having a baby in a few years? Make sure your puppy is not afraid of little kids then.
Introduce your puppy to new people, situations and animals calmly. Avoid excitement and excessively
rough play. Always supervise young children with your puppy. Try to give equal attention to other pets in
the household in order to minimise any disruption to their routine.
Parasites
A sensible parasite control and prevention program, tailored to your pet’s lifestyle is needed throughout their life. There are many products available. Some are applied to the skin; others are given orally. Some are not safe for young puppies, and others are not safe if you have cats in the household. Always read the safety directions on the packaging carefully.
Choosing the right parasite control program for your pup can be confusing and often it helps to talk it through with someone who understands all the options available. We are your informed experts, feel free to discuss parasite control with us anytime.
Fleas
Being itchy is no fun at all! Our pups are lucky that there are very effective and safe preventative treatments available for fleas.
Your puppy may have been exposed to fleas already. If they haven’t, they soon will be as they start to venture out into the world. Every time they have fun with another dog, visit a park, or sit under a table in a cafe while you enjoy a coffee, your pup is at risk of picking up fleas. Even in your own yard contamination can occur when cats come to visit.
Flea bites itch and dogs can become allergic to the flea saliva resulting in a severe reaction to only a small number of bites. Severe infestation in young pups will cause anaemia. That is why having your pup on a regular, safe, flea preventative is highly recommended.
Intestinal worms
Worm your puppy every two weeks until they are three months old. Then, worm your puppy every month until they are six months old. From six months of age, dogs who live in an urban environment need to be wormed every three months. Dogs that regularly visit rural areas, be they bush or farms should be wormed every month.
Heartworm
Heartworm is transmitted through the bite of an infected mosquito and causes lung disease and heart failure in dogs. It can take up to two years for an infected dog to develop symptoms, but during that time mosquitoes that bite them carry the infection to other dogs. Foxes in and around Melbourne can also carry heartworm.
In an infected dog worms up to 30cm long choke the major blood vessels of the lungs. The first symptom is usually a cough that gradually worsens. The dog can’t exercise and becomes lethargic and inactive. In the advanced stages collapse and death can occur.
Heartworm can be prevented through an injection or in a combined tablet or spot-on treatment. For puppies, the injection is given at 12 weeks of age with a booster at 9 months and 15 months which will line up with their annual booster C5 vaccination.
Ticks
In Australian native parkland and out in the bush, ticks live on wildlife and will attach to and feed on dogs. Bush tick bites cause local irritation and paralysis ticks can kill. Paralysis ticks are a common danger to dogs that live on the East Coast of Australia. However, they can be known to travel down the coast, particularly in peak season when people are frequently making trips up and down the coast over a summer holiday. Ticks can be prevented through a combined tablet.
More information is available on our Parasite Control page.
Toilet Training Tips
Take them outside for routine breaks every 45 minutes - 1 hour. Only increase the length of time when
you are confident your puppy can hold on.Take your puppy outside (or to the designated area) and wait until they are eliminated. Remain calm – we need to send a clear message that this is not playtime.
Generally, your puppy will give you signals such as circling, walking around quietly or sniffing. Sometimes they may whimper. Learn how to read their cues, and immediately take them to the toilet area and praise them when they go in the correct spot.
Puppies typically need to go toilet as soon as they wake, after eating and after a play session.
Every pup is different, but with patience, most pups are getting the hang of it after a week or two. Over the first few weeks continue to be vigilant as they can regress. The more consistent you are, the faster you will see results!
A good rule of thumb is 6 weeks and no accident, you can assume your pup is fully toilet-trained
What to do if your puppy has an accident
Do not reprimand! This can have a negative impact on your puppy and may make them hide their accidents from you in future (such as behind a door or under a table).
Do not punish accidents whether during the act or if discovered later.
We want to set our puppies up to succeed. Keeping the same designated areas will limit confusion for our puppies. Note: it is possible to train your puppy with training pads (for circumstances when you may not be home) as well as having a grass patch outside.
Clean up accidents with enzymatic cleaners: Puppies are drawn to eliminate where they have been previously, therefore it is important to clean with an enzymatic cleaner to completely break down the urine smell.
Bleaches and disinfectants may have an ammonia base which, to your puppy may smell like urine.
Mouthing and Biting
Mouthing and chewing inappropriate items is often the most common problem behaviour we see. This is due to puppies investigating the world through their mouths! Think of puppies having the life motto “If I see it, I can eat it”. It is important that we start with diversion techniques early and STAY CONSISTENT! Ensure that everyone who comes into contact with your puppy interacts with them the same way as you would.
Provide your puppy with various chew toys like Kong and rotate them regularly to keep the toys interesting. Stuff them with some yummy treats, and freeze them for the ultimate chewing challenge!
Things you should avoid
Do not play with your puppy using your hands.
Do not reprimand your puppy for mouthing you. Instead, either:
Stop the play immediately, ignore your puppy or turn away from them and, if necessary, leave the room.*
Redirect your pup’s attention to a soft toy or rope toy, instead of your hand.
Yelp or whimper as a litter mate would if they were bitten too hard or played with too rough. This will not work for every puppy but has been shown to work for some.
* If we feel as though we need time out from the puppy, we must remove ourselves from the environment rather than putting the puppy in a ‘time out’ zone. This is because time-out zones are in the backyard or in a playpen. If we respond negatively to our puppies and place them in time-out, that immediately creates a negative space. This is alarming for the dog when expected to stay in that space for a long period of time, usually when owners go out to work or school. This can unsurprisingly create feelings of tension and anxiety in the pup when they are left in that negative zone.